Thursday, February 12, 2009

Tilt-a-world


One of those classic carnival rides, Tilt-a-worlds can bring us back in time to fond memories of childhood, or just give us a good ride. Ever ridden one for 36 hours straight? Well that’s how long it took us to sail from the mouth of Rio Dulce, Guatemala to the island of Roatan, Honduras. The ride? Let just say it was a ride!


We left our anchorage at 7 am on the February 10th, and motored down river through a glorious gorge. Here is an excerpt from John Lloyd Stephens as he headed upstream on the Rio Dulce for the first time in 1841. “In a few moments we entered the Rio Dulce. On each side, rising perpendicularly from three to four hundred feet, was a wall of living green. Trees grew from the water’s edge, with dense unbroken foliage, to the top; not a spot of barrenness was to be seen; and on both sides, from the tops of the highest trees, long tendrils descended to the water, as if to drink and carry life to the trunks that bore them. It was, as it’s name imports, a Rio Dulce, a fairy scene of Titan land, combining exquisite beauty with colossal grandeur.”

We squeaked across the mile wide sand bar at high tide, giving us the extra few inches we needed to keep from auguring our keel into the bottom and running aground.
As we left the protection of the bay and rounded Cabo Tres Puntas (the point) the wind and waves began to pick up and our tilt-a-world ride began. And our crew began to get sick. Jessica was the first to feel it and was by far the most extremely affected. She did not have the luxury of being able to take medication, as the anti-nausea medications are not recommended for pregnant women. Others did take medication to lessen the effects, while Steve and Brian seemed to be little affected by the less-than-steady “ground”.

As for sailing on the open ocean, we did the most enlivening sailing under the light of a mostly-full moon. The sails filled with soft tones of warm skin, like the bosom of your loved one. The night air kissed our lips and wrapped us in a cashmere blanket of warmth. And the boat whistled along, heaving and rolling.
I (Daniel) did have to hurl over the edge a few times. I was amazed by the energy and force that ones heaving guts can create. My meals were projected from my mouth like water gushing from a fire hydrant .

We have officially left Guatemala, and after sailing and motoring for 36 hours continuously we are now in Honduras! Upon arrival in Coxen Hole, Roatan, Honduras, Jessica was able to crawl out of her bunk and rejoin the group (after 24 hours of being bed-ridden). Exploring the coast of the island of Roatan is where we will be for the next week, before we return to Rio Dulce, Guatemala.

We hear that the diving is good down here and Brian is looking forward to blowing some bubbles. Jessica, being ‘prego’, will have to forgo the incredible diving due to the unknown (and un-researched) effects of nitrogen gasses on unborn babies. Too bad. No one else is certified to dive – perhaps some of us will take a basic open water diving course while we are here in Roatan. Or, perhaps the rest will be content with a mask and snorkel. We’ll let you know how it goes.

Cheers